So once I sat down at the computer on Friday afternoon I decided to email the dad, Eliud. Eliud was very happy to hear from me and came right over to the hotel. He requested that I come to his home tomorrow and meet his family. He also asked what things I wanted to do to see if he could help arrange anything. He was very kind and incredibly hospitable. On Saturday morning, after breakfast, I met Eliud and his four children George (17), David (15), Brian (11?) and Mitchelle (6) at Nakamutt Junction. Everyone held my hand and embraced me being there. We went back to his home and I also met his wife, Diane. Diane is a teacher at a nearby public school and Eliud works in the finance department at the airport. We sat around and discussed the things that I wanted to see and do. 
One of the big things that I wanted to do was to visit Kibera. Kibera is the second largest slum in Africa - it houses over a million people. Kibera started out as a settlement location for Kenyan soldiers after the WWI and has morphed over time into an unauthorized settlement. Kibera lacks basic sanitation, electricity, roads, and any general social service. I felt that I needed to go see it and understand what it was about. Luckily for me, the Chelangas live within walking distance of Kibera and Eliud arranged for a Kibera-resident, Moi, and George to take me on a tour. I was terrified at first, at the point right before I entered Kibera. Everything just changes and you can see, smell, and feel the poverty - but George assured me that I was fine as long as Moi was with me and that no one would steal from me - still it was overwhelming to see 1 million incredibly poor people. So Kibera is set out over a few square miles - and in pictures I will post later you will see that they are basic settlements with corrugated tin roofs. There are no roadways but just basic walking paths and both sides of the walking paths are lined with open sewer ditches. Anything and everything gets dumped into the sewers. The sewers flow openly everywhere and I would image it would be an epic crisis during the rainy season. On the other hand it's the dry season and everything is so dusty. Each breathe brings in tons of dust, so much so that breathing can be hard and my eyes were so irritated. I could try to describe the sights and smells but it is practically impossible. Moi took us to his home which he shares with his wife, baby and three brothers - and it's the size of a very large bathroom. Children followed me everywhere and most just wanted to touch my hand. Most speak only Swahili or a tribal language, but everyone managed to be able to sing 'How are you?" It was a chorus of voices that followed me everywhere. The adults generally ignored me - some thought I was a journalist because I carried my camera bag, others asked for sugar - but most didn't care. I was happy for that and I felt awkward as a foreign tourist kind of gawking through their poverty - but I tried to be as kind and open as possible. Moi, George and I walked around for about 3 hours in the hot sun and I was ready to leave by the end. It's sad to see the government neglecting so many people and the standard of living is beyond imagination, yet one million people make due in that environment AND people continue to move into Kibera. You can find almost anything in Kibera (phones, topping up minutes, clothes, food, electronics, schools, etc). Another thing to note - Obama's father's tribe is the tribe that largely makes up Kibera so people in Nairobi and especially Kibera love him. Kibera had a few improvised Obama Pubs and Obama bars . . . seriously! Moi, George and I took a bus home from Kibera and George and I went inside and promptly used soap and water to wash our faces and hands. My face was covered in grit and it took a few washes until I felt cleaner. Interesting to note that it was also the first time George had ever been to Kibera, despite having lived so close to it for the past 10 years. Needless to say, it's not a place most hope to enter. 
One of the big things that I wanted to do was to visit Kibera. Kibera is the second largest slum in Africa - it houses over a million people. Kibera started out as a settlement location for Kenyan soldiers after the WWI and has morphed over time into an unauthorized settlement. Kibera lacks basic sanitation, electricity, roads, and any general social service. I felt that I needed to go see it and understand what it was about. Luckily for me, the Chelangas live within walking distance of Kibera and Eliud arranged for a Kibera-resident, Moi, and George to take me on a tour. I was terrified at first, at the point right before I entered Kibera. Everything just changes and you can see, smell, and feel the poverty - but George assured me that I was fine as long as Moi was with me and that no one would steal from me - still it was overwhelming to see 1 million incredibly poor people. So Kibera is set out over a few square miles - and in pictures I will post later you will see that they are basic settlements with corrugated tin roofs. There are no roadways but just basic walking paths and both sides of the walking paths are lined with open sewer ditches. Anything and everything gets dumped into the sewers. The sewers flow openly everywhere and I would image it would be an epic crisis during the rainy season. On the other hand it's the dry season and everything is so dusty. Each breathe brings in tons of dust, so much so that breathing can be hard and my eyes were so irritated. I could try to describe the sights and smells but it is practically impossible. Moi took us to his home which he shares with his wife, baby and three brothers - and it's the size of a very large bathroom. Children followed me everywhere and most just wanted to touch my hand. Most speak only Swahili or a tribal language, but everyone managed to be able to sing 'How are you?" It was a chorus of voices that followed me everywhere. The adults generally ignored me - some thought I was a journalist because I carried my camera bag, others asked for sugar - but most didn't care. I was happy for that and I felt awkward as a foreign tourist kind of gawking through their poverty - but I tried to be as kind and open as possible. Moi, George and I walked around for about 3 hours in the hot sun and I was ready to leave by the end. It's sad to see the government neglecting so many people and the standard of living is beyond imagination, yet one million people make due in that environment AND people continue to move into Kibera. You can find almost anything in Kibera (phones, topping up minutes, clothes, food, electronics, schools, etc). Another thing to note - Obama's father's tribe is the tribe that largely makes up Kibera so people in Nairobi and especially Kibera love him. Kibera had a few improvised Obama Pubs and Obama bars . . . seriously! Moi, George and I took a bus home from Kibera and George and I went inside and promptly used soap and water to wash our faces and hands. My face was covered in grit and it took a few washes until I felt cleaner. Interesting to note that it was also the first time George had ever been to Kibera, despite having lived so close to it for the past 10 years. Needless to say, it's not a place most hope to enter. Eliud and Diane were out most of the afternoon but when they returned, Eliud decided to take all of the kids and myself to a nearby giraffe reserve. We settled into the 4WD and left. That part of Nairobi is beautiful - open fields, lots of green. There are also a ton of rich people living out there and the houses rival wealthy western homes. It took about 30 minutes to get to the reserve and by the time we arrived the place had just closed and the rangers were standing outside. Eliud kindly explained that his American friend was in town and couldn't they just help us out? So the rangers talked for a few minutes and then told us we could come with them to feed the giraffes! The kids and I were all excited and we followed the rangers down the road. The giraffes are all enclosed in this huge reserve so the rangers took a metal cup and banged on the fence for a few minutes until the giraffes came lumbering over. We had one giraffe on each side of the road and we spent about an hour watching and feeding the giraffes. They would stick their heads over the fence and eat out of our hands like horses would. We eventually attracted a large group of people which was good for the guards since we all tipped them for their help. It was a really neat experience and we all had a lot of fun together. On the way back Eliud stopped and asked a friend to take me back into town, which was helpful because he was able to negotiate a great rate. By the time we left it was very dark and I am not a fan of being out in the dark here. The driving is very dangerous, the roads poorly maintained, and a lot of bad characters are out. So Eliud asked the driver to be safe and slow and off we went. About 7 minutes from town we were waved down by the police and we had to pull over. I became so terrified. Outside of being out at night and driving, the only other thing that scares me more is involvement with anyone related to the government. There is so much corruption and abuse of power here that's terrifying. The driver and police spoke in Swahili and I was lost, but I knew that the driver was scared and the police were angry - which did not bode well for me. The police took the drivers papers and the driver was frantic on the phone. The police asked me a few questions but I was almost too scared to answer. Finally I took a deep breathe and rolled down my window and just started talking to the policeman - asking him about his job and other things. Eliud had told me that most Kenyans are incredibly kind and they love foreigners. He asked me where I was from and I said 'Chicago, where Obama is from," hoping that mention would work. He became very happy and told me I was a good girl and because of that he was going to let us go. He gave the driver his papers back and sent us on the way. It was a very scary end to an interesting day! I spent the rest of the evening in the hotel.
On Sunday I had arranged a tour through the hotel to go visit the Nairobi National Park and do a four-hour safari ride. I was picked up at 7:30am and driven to the park. The amazing thing about Nairobi is that the national parks and bush are SO close. From the park you can clearly see the city line. From what I understand the parks no longer have elephants because they would venture into the city and be a risk. I was alone on the tour and it was a large van/bus that had a pop-up top which enabled me to stand and be in the open air. The tour was fabulous. We passed very few other people and since it was early morning before the sun got too hot we were able to see a lot. We first saw some crowned cranes and then stumbled upon a large group of buffalo. These are very dangerous animals and will sometimes charge the vehicles, but we slowly made it right thro
ugh the middle of the pack. We then came across the following animals: Topi gazelles, zebras, giraffes, ostriches, strokes, lions, baboons, impalas, warthogs and black and white fiscals. The best parts were the zebra and the lions. Zebras are my favorite animals and we say hundreds of them, including babies. We were able to get pretty close. The second were the lions, mostly because the park does not have too many lions and it was a privilege to see them. We were out in the middle of the bush surrounded by tons of giraffes, zebra and gazelle when there was just a huge change that came over all the animals. I like to think I had noticed, but it took Stanley my driver to say that there were lions nearby before I even noticed. I asked him how he knew and it because obvious- all the animals in sight were 
frozen in place and looking out over the distance at some point behind a watering hole. Stanley drove us over there and sure enough we spotted four young male lions. They were beautiful and just staking out the area for possibly some evening feeds. At one point one lion made a move to chase, but ended up sitting back down. In the end it was a great morning. The sun was hot and it was a clear day with a great breeze. I really enjoyed the ride and all the animals. When I got back to the hotel I took a shower to remove the dusk and called Eliud. He had requested that I come out and share in the slaughter of a goat. Kenyans love to slaughter their animals for celebrations and to mark special occasions. This goat was being killed to celebrate the holiday being over, New Years, and my arrival and it had been hand picked from the Masai Mara region. I had tried not to think too much about it, considering I had grown up with a goat, and because it would have been rude to turn it down. So Eliud came to pick me up and we waited for his friend John who was going to slaughter the goat. John came and we started driving and I thought to ask where the goat was - when all of a sudden a ton of bleating came from the back of the 4WD. The goat was in the BACK OF THE CAR. Every time we came to a stop the goat would start very loudly and all the people on the street would stop and stare. I went back and forth between laughing very hard and feeling sick to my stomach. The goat was in the car! So we get home and get the goat out. John spends some time untying it just to retie it in a different way. The kids and I petted the goat and I asked Eliud if it would be okay if I did not watch the slaughter - that I would love to eat the meat but I didn't want to watch. He was okay with it, but morbid curiosity had me watching most of it. He hung the goat by its feet upside down and slit its throat. They drained the blood and then John skinned and butchered the goat. In the meantime we had lunch together of vegetables and rice and chapati. Kenyans eat a lot of food and a lot of starch! Diane noticed I didn't eat any rice and was worried but I explained that I don't eat pasta or very much rice at home. After the goat was done the adults smoked the meat over a grill. As each piece finished all the children and their friends would swoop in to stand around and each goat, diced tomatoes and ugali (a starchy dish) out of community bowls. I had some goat and it was delicious, though the textual of the meat is very different from the US - very grisly and hard to tear. We all sat around and talked about Kenya and the US and had many conversations comparing the two places. I met their neighbors and some family. At the end of the night the entire family and I went to Java House, a very western coffee house, for some coffee for the parents and ice cream and cake for the kids and I. I met a Minister of the government and some other people there. I had to argue with the Chelangas to pay but they finally agreed. They made me promise to return each time I am in Nairobi and called me their daughter. I have to say, unequivocally, the Chelangas are the nicest people I have met in a long time. They opened their home and hearts to me and did not think twice about planning their weekend around me. Without them I would still be stuck in Friday-mode, being unhappy with Nairobi and not having had so many amazing experiences. I have a lot of love for them and owe them so much more then I could ever repay.
So, that brings me now, to Monday. I went to the US Embassy this morning to get some additional pages in my passport. It was located in a beautiful section of Nairobi and I just loved it. The embassy gave me additional pages for free and had free internet. It was extra good to be an American because we jumped to the front of the line. On the way home I walked to this little cafe with a beautiful outdoor eating area and had a great lunch. I took a cab home and then walked here. Tomorrow I think I need to get a bus ticket for when I return from Madagascar. The hotel confirmed my flight this morning and it's all good - I had been nervous because I paid for the expensive flight a few weeks ago using a paypal link . . .. such is Africa. I may also go to the elephant sanctuary and butterfly reserve. I'm not too sure yet.
It's been an amazing few days. I've been a little homesick and a little lonely, but the Chelangas have really helped me this an important trip for me. Overall, Nairobi is pretty great and Kenyans are incredibly kind people. I know I have spent a lot of time writing about what I am doing and not a lot of time writing about Kenyans, but they really are wonderful. I leave for Madagascar on Wednesday and am not sure when I will write again. I hope everyone is doing well and thanks to everyone for the emails and blog comments. Maddy Gitomer, I miss you so much and I look at your picture all the time :-)
On Sunday I had arranged a tour through the hotel to go visit the Nairobi National Park and do a four-hour safari ride. I was picked up at 7:30am and driven to the park. The amazing thing about Nairobi is that the national parks and bush are SO close. From the park you can clearly see the city line. From what I understand the parks no longer have elephants because they would venture into the city and be a risk. I was alone on the tour and it was a large van/bus that had a pop-up top which enabled me to stand and be in the open air. The tour was fabulous. We passed very few other people and since it was early morning before the sun got too hot we were able to see a lot. We first saw some crowned cranes and then stumbled upon a large group of buffalo. These are very dangerous animals and will sometimes charge the vehicles, but we slowly made it right through the middle of the pack. We then came across the following animals: Topi gazelles, zebras, giraffes, ostriches, strokes, lions, baboons, impalas, warthogs and black and white fiscals. The best parts were the zebra and the lions. Zebras are my favorite animals and we say hundreds of them, including babies. We were able to get pretty close. The second were the lions, mostly because the park does not have too many lions and it was a privilege to see them. We were out in the middle of the bush surrounded by tons of giraffes, zebra and gazelle when there was just a huge change that came over all the animals. I like to think I had noticed, but it took Stanley my driver to say that there were lions nearby before I even noticed. I asked him how he knew and it because obvious- all the animals in sight were frozen in place and looking out over the distance at some point behind a watering hole. Stanley drove us over there and sure enough we spotted four young male lions. They were beautiful and just staking out the area for possibly some evening feeds. At one point one lion made a move to chase, but ended up sitting back down. In the end it was a great morning. The sun was hot and it was a clear day with a great breeze. I really enjoyed the ride and all the animals. When I got back to the hotel I took a shower to remove the dusk and called Eliud. He had requested that I come out and share in the slaughter of a goat. Kenyans love to slaughter their animals for celebrations and to mark special occasions. This goat was being killed to celebrate the holiday being over, New Years, and my arrival and it had been hand picked from the Masai Mara region. I had tried not to think too much about it, considering I had grown up with a goat, and because it would have been rude to turn it down. So Eliud came to pick me up and we waited for his friend John who was going to slaughter the goat. John came and we started driving and I thought to ask where the goat was - when all of a sudden a ton of bleating came from the back of the 4WD. The goat was in the BACK OF THE CAR. Every time we came to a stop the goat would start very loudly and all the people on the street would stop and stare. I went back and forth between laughing very hard and feeling sick to my stomach. The goat was in the car! So we get home and get the goat out. John spends some time untying it just to retie it in a different way. The kids and I petted the goat and I asked Eliud if it would be okay if I did not watch the slaughter - that I would love to eat the meat but I didn't want to watch. He was okay with it, but morbid curiosity had me watching most of it. He hung the goat by its feet upside down and slit its throat. They drained the blood and then John skinned and butchered the goat. In the meantime we had lunch together of vegetables and rice and chapati. Kenyans eat a lot of food and a lot of starch! Diane noticed I didn't eat any rice and was worried but I explained that I don't eat pasta or very much rice at home. After the goat was done the adults smoked the meat over a grill. As each piece finished all the children and their friends would swoop in to stand around and each goat, diced tomatoes and ugali (a starchy dish) out of community bowls. I had some goat and it was delicious, though the textual of the meat is very different from the US - very grisly and hard to tear. We all sat around and talked about Kenya and the US and had many conversations comparing the two places. I met their neighbors and some family. At the end of the night the entire family and I went to Java House, a very western coffee house, for some coffee for the parents and ice cream and cake for the kids and I. I met a Minister of the government and some other people there. I had to argue with the Chelangas to pay but they finally agreed. They made me promise to return each time I am in Nairobi and called me their daughter. I have to say, unequivocally, the Chelangas are the nicest people I have met in a long time. They opened their home and hearts to me and did not think twice about planning their weekend around me. Without them I would still be stuck in Friday-mode, being unhappy with Nairobi and not having had so many amazing experiences. I have a lot of love for them and owe them so much more then I could ever repay.So, that brings me now, to Monday. I went to the US Embassy this morning to get some additional pages in my passport. It was located in a beautiful section of Nairobi and I just loved it. The embassy gave me additional pages for free and had free internet. It was extra good to be an American because we jumped to the front of the line. On the way home I walked to this little cafe with a beautiful outdoor eating area and had a great lunch. I took a cab home and then walked here. Tomorrow I think I need to get a bus ticket for when I return from Madagascar. The hotel confirmed my flight this morning and it's all good - I had been nervous because I paid for the expensive flight a few weeks ago using a paypal link . . .. such is Africa. I may also go to the elephant sanctuary and butterfly reserve. I'm not too sure yet.
It's been an amazing few days. I've been a little homesick and a little lonely, but the Chelangas have really helped me this an important trip for me. Overall, Nairobi is pretty great and Kenyans are incredibly kind people. I know I have spent a lot of time writing about what I am doing and not a lot of time writing about Kenyans, but they really are wonderful. I leave for Madagascar on Wednesday and am not sure when I will write again. I hope everyone is doing well and thanks to everyone for the emails and blog comments. Maddy Gitomer, I miss you so much and I look at your picture all the time :-)
i am really proud of you. proud of you for going all out to get a nice tan just kidding. take care of yourself. awesome blog keep writing and we need more pics of you.
ReplyDeleteAmer Afzaluddin
Love the pics babe. I just want to know, were these lions more scary than the lions we saw at Rob's farm in South Africa? And, what did the goat taste like? Chicken? I have some bad news, the vikings lost, so no more football. I know you will be upset about that.
ReplyDeleteVery nice. I read the entire article. Impressive. You go girl....
ReplyDeleteAwww.. giraffes and zebras and lions.. and buffalo.. and.. and.. So very very very very cool. Sorry that some of your experiences are scary, but very happy that you have found such wonderful people to keep you safe and happy. XO
ReplyDelete